Thursday, June 7, 2012

Julia Czechs Out Prague


So this past weekend, I left Rome for a brief excursion to my second favorite European country that I have visited, the Czech Republic. (The fact that I have only visited two European countries does not matter in this instance, as I adore the Czech Republic.) Going back to the country where I spent most of my last summer was amazing and full of reminiscing, because it was exactly like I remembered it.

There’s something interesting about the Czech culture that’s very unlike Italian. The Czech are somewhat less friendly than the Italians, although if you know a little bit of Czech, you gain favor in their eyes. I discovered a new appreciation for how much Italian I have actually learned, because every time I tried to figure out how to say something like, “Where is Old Time Square?” or or “How much is this scarf?” I could instantly figure out the Italian translation, but in Czech I was hopelessly lost. I know only seven phrases/words in Czech: 1. Good day 2. Yes 3. No 4. Thank you! 5. You’re welcome! 6. Excuse Me 7.Do you speak English? (I’m particularly fond of the last one; it took quite a bit to memorize that but came in handy.) Luckily, these seven phrases were more than enough to get by for two days in Prague.

There’s a distinct difference between Rome and Prague, even though they are both very large cities in their respective countries. Rome is all bustle and photo-snapping, with tourists every which way on the opposite side of the Tiber. (Trastevere, of course, is slightly less crowded, particularly my area of it, since it does not hold the major sites of Rome.) Prague, in contrast, seems far more empty except for the main tourist attractions: the Charles Bridge, the Old Town Square. However, plenty of native Czech speakers roam these same attractions, and so the feel of the city is much more intimate.

Prague’s metro system is also much easier to navigate than Rome’s. I’m still doing my best to figure out the complicated bus/tram/train system in Rome, but Prague’s is incredibly simple and reminds me of the ease of tram traveling my summer in Pilsen. I felt free and powerful in the streets of Prague, unlike my usual hurried frustration on the busses in Rome.

Prague (and the Czech Republic) are also purely picturesque. It is stunning there, with bright-colored houses and elegant shop fronts and buildings designed in every era’s architectural style. It’s dazzling in its gorgeousness; I got fantastic pictures everywhere I walked.

The night life in Prague is more invigorating than what I’ve experienced in Rome so far, not that I’ve gone out much in Rome yet. But with my girlfriends we danced the nights away in busy, crowded clubs filled with people speaking dozens of languages, from Czech to German, in dozens of accents, from Irish to Australian. We quickly learned that in the Czech Republic, at clubs, men wait for the women to approach them, not the other way around. This was somewhat enjoyable, because we could easily choose our dance partners or simply dance in a clustered group.

The rest of Prague involved walking tours around the major sites, quick shopping sprees, and foot-resting in our elegant hostel. Although it was apparently the nicest hostel most people had ever stayed at, I was not a fan of the communal bathrooms/showers. I intentionally avoided that at my university; I did not want to deal with that overseas either. However, I moved past my spoiled American preferences and made it work, although I was pleased to return to my private apartment bathroom back in Rome. I did, however, enjoy the soft mattress and giant pillow which exceeded the quality of that in my apartment.

I got to see excellent things in Prague: the elegant castle, the Lennon Wall, the stands of jewelry and paintings framing the Charles Bridge, the opera house where Don Giovanni was first premiered, my old pal Dvorak (in statue form, of course), and Mozart’s house (from the film, Amadeus). It was wonderful walking semi-familiar streets and remembering things from the past summer. The food - the goulash, the fried cheese, the yeasty pastries sold in stands in the middle of the square - was absolutely delicious and just as I remembered it.

Returning to the Czech Republic was like visiting an old friend, one I cannot wait to visit again in the future. But once again, it was comforting to return to Trastevere, where the cobblestones and the shop owners are familiar and friendly, and the food is distinctly Italian.

This weekend, I’m heading off to Venice and Verona with friends, and I shall update shortly with my experiences there as well as my reflections on the opera (it was more than amazing) and my Italian cooking class!

Baci,

Giulia

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